A move in which the crossing arm goes behind the other arm and is so far extended that the body is forced to twist until it ends up facing away from the rock. It was introduced by Antoine Le Menestrel [fr] to climb a route in Buoux called La rose et le vampire8b (5.13d) in 1985.[70]
route
See climbing route.
RP
A small protection nut on a wire for tiny cracks with marginal holding power; named after Roland Pauligk.[2]
runner
1. In the US, a sling is made from nylon-blend materials, used by climbers for a multitude of purposes.[1]
2. In the UK, any item of protection placed by the lead climber to reduce the length of a fall.[2]
runout
A long runout
In a term in lead climbing for the distance between points of good protection; in the grading of climbs, routes with long runouts have higher adjectival "E" grade (British system), or an R/Xor even X suffix (American system). See ground fall.[1][2]
RURP
A miniature, postage stamp-sized chrome-moly square piton, tied to a wire or rope and hammered into cracks; created by Yvon Chouinard in 1960 for extreme aid climbing routes in Yosemite; acronym for realized ultimate reality piton.[71]
R/X
A suffix used in the yosemite decimal system for traditional climbing routes that have poor possibilities for protection where any fall could be serious (e.g. Master's Edge). See X.
A rock climb with a much lower official climbing grade than probably deserved; sometimes due to a "trick-move" at the crux that once learned, does make the route easier; or due to overly conservative grading.[2]
A type of climbing somewhere between hiking and graded rock climbing; involves climbing the easiest grades.
screamer
1. Shock absorbing sling designed to reduce peak loads in a climbing system. Very commonly used for winter / ice climbing. Made of a nylon webbing structure consisting of one large loop sewn in multiple places to make a shorter length.
Self-locking device
A device used in solo climbing, and particularly rope solo climbing, to automatically arrest falls. Examples include Wren's Silent Partner. See also progress capture device. Compare automatic belay.
The involuntary vibration of the leg due to fatigue and/or panic and stress.[2]
shadow match
A rock climbing move to quickly switch hands on a hold that can only fit one hand at a time.
sharp end
The end of the rope that is attached to the lead climber, to denote the more serious activity they are undertaking compared to the belayer.[2]
short fixing
An advanced big wall climbing technique where the lead climber fixes the rope at an anchor to allow the second to ascend using jumars, while the leader climber then continues to ascend in a rope solo climbing fashion; unlike simul climbing, neither is belaying the other.[72][73]
side pull
A side pull
A vertical hold that needs to be gripped with a sideways pull towards the body.[1][2][11]
An advanced technique in which two climbers move simultaneously upward, with the leader placing protection that the second removes as they advance. A protection capture device (PCD) may also be used.[73]
The use of a single rope where one or both ends of the rope are attached to fixed anchor points. See fixed rope.
sit start
Also sit down start or SDS
A sit start
Bouldering term for a route that must be started from a seated position on the ground with hands and feet on prescribed holds; acronyms are SS (sit-start), SDS (sit-down-start), or assis (french); concept invented by John Yablonski.[74]
skyhook
Skyhook
A metal hook inserted on a horizontal hold for protection in traditional climbing, or in aid climbing.
slab
A low-angle — significantly less than vertical — rock face that requires slab climbing techniques.[2]
slab climbing
A type of climbing on slabs that usually emphasizes balance, footwork, and smearing.
slack
In lead climbing and in top rope climbing, it is the amount of additional rope that the belayer has allowed; slack increases the distance of any fall before the protection begins to hold the rope, but is needed to reduce rope drag or aid.[75]
A style of lead climbing where the protection is via pre-placed fixed bolts; opposite of traditional climbing.[3] Confusingly, competition climbing (which includes bolted lead climbing, but also free solo bouldering and top-roped speed climbing) is sometimes called "sport climbing".[2][3]
A non-elastic climbing rope used for abseiling or jumaring (as a fixed rope), but not lead climbing. Compare dynamic rope.[2][30]
stein pull
A technique in mixed climbing and dry-tooling where the ice axe is inverted and the blade wedged into a crack above the climber's head, who then pulls down on the handle of the axe to gain upward momentum. See also undercling pull.[76]
2. A knot used to prevent the end of a rope from running through—and detaching from—a piece of gear.[1][2]
sure-footedness
Sure-footedness is the ability when hiking or mountain climbing, to negotiate difficult or rough terrain safely.[77]
swami belt
A type of simple climbing harness
T
tat
Term to describe pieces of webbing or cord left on a climb (e.g. "I found some old tat") often as part of an irretrievable anchor point that was part of an abseil station.[78]
take
Also take-in.
The act of taking the slack out of a rope; also a climbing command by a lead climber to the belayer.[1]
talus
Talus rocks
An area of large rock fragments on a mountainside where the rocks are stable and not loose like scree.
talon hook
A type of three-pronged climbing hook used for securing the climber to a horizontal edge in the rock face. Each prong contains a curved hook of differing widths for securing onto respective edge sizes when aid climbing.
tape
Applying tape
Also climbing tape and second skin
Adhesive tape that is wrapped around the fingers and hands to protect the skin; particularly useful in crack climbing.
technical grade
See grade.
testpiece
A route that is representative of the hardest climbs in an area at a particular grade (e.g. Action Directe for grade 9a).
tie in
Also tying in.
To physically attach the harness to the climbing rope, usually via a figure-eight knot. See clip in.
thread
A runner created by "threading" a sling around a jammed block or through a hole in the rock.[2]
toe hook
A toe hook
Act of pressing the upper side of the toes under a hold to pull the climber inwards; used on overhangs.[1][12]
To belay from a fixed anchor point above the climb; if the climber falls, they just hang. See hangdogging.[2][1][3]
top-out
To complete a route by ascending over the top of the climb to safety.[2]
torque pull
A technique in mixed climbing and dry-tooling where the ice axe is wedged into a crack and twisted to generate torque to aid upward momentum. See also undercling pull and stein pull.[76]
A style of lead climbing where protection is placed as the lead climber ascends; opposite of sport climbing.[2][3]
trail rope
Also haul line.
A big wall climbing technique where the lead climber carries an additional static rope (in addition to their dynamic climbing rope) that hangs (or "trails") behind them as they ascend; the trail rope enables the belayer to pass equipment to the leader during the ascent, and for the leader to haul up equipment as the belayer ascends.[22][62]
Climbing on tufas
1. A limestone rib formation that protrudes from the wall which climbers can pinch-grip.
2. A plastic bolted-on bouldering hold to replicate such a formation on an climbing wall.
twin ropes
In lead climbing, using two ropes that are even thinner than double ropes, both of which need to be clipped in at each point of protection; sometimes used in long alpine climbing routes with major abseiling descents.[30]
twist lock
A climbing move where the hips "twist" perpendicular to the wall, the inside arm is "locked" on an upper hold, the outside arm holds the body against the wall, and the feet press down to propel the body higher.
Acronym for the international governance body for mountaineering and other types of climbing; UIAA also regulates competition ice climbing.[1] See also IFSC.
The UIAA grade system for rock climbing, which goes: ... VI, VII, VIII, IX, X, XI, .... , to XII; is less common than the French grade system or the American YDS grade system, but still used in Germany and parts of Eastern Europe.[6]
A downward hold which is gripped with the palm of the hand facing upwards.[1][2][11]
undercling pull
After a stein pull is completed, the undercling pull is a mixed climbing technique for continuing to use the hold to gain upward momentum by using the hold to pull into the rock; requires a lot more energy than a stein pull.[76]
A grading system for bouldering problems invented by John Sherman, which goes: V0, V1, V2, V3, V4, V5, V6, V7, ... , to V17. The V-scale and the French font scale are the most common boulder grading systems in use worldwide.[1][6]
A type of abseiling point used especially in winter and in ice climbing.
verglas
A thin coating of ice that forms over rocks when rainfall or melting snow freezes, which is hard to climb on as there is insufficient depth for crampons to have penetration. See also clear ice and glaze ice.
Climbing a via ferrata
An alpine route where protection is from permanent steel fixed ropes or chains, with progression aided by artificial steel steps or ladders; commonly found in the Dolomites. See also lanyard and energy absorber.
volume hold
Volume holds
A large, hollow, bolted-on hold, for indoor climbing walls; it may itself contain individual holds
Part of the ice climbing system for grading the technical difficulty of ice climbing routes, which goes: WI1, WI2, WI3, WI4, WI5, WI6, and up to WI13.[4] See also M-grade.
Round webbing
A hollow and flat nylon strip mainly used to make slings.
webolette
A piece of webbing with eyes sewn into the ends which can be used in place of a cordelette.
weighting
Any time a rope sustains the weight of the climber, e.g. "weighting the rope". This can happen during a minor fall, a whipper (long fall), or simply by resting while hanging on the belay rope. See also hangdogging.
whipper
Climber on a whipper
A large fall by a lead climber as they were well beyond the last piece of protection. See screamer.[79]
wire brushing
Cleaning a rock climbing route with a wire brush before an attempt; has ethical issues due to rock damage and possible chipping.[2]
wired
See dialled.[2]
wires
See nuts.[2]
X
X
A suffix used in the Yosemite decimal system for highlighting traditional climbing routes that have poor or even no possibilities for protection, where any fall could be fatal (e.g. Indian Face and Gaia). See R/X and chop route.
Y
yaniro
French term for a figure-four move which came from American climber Tony Yaniro's use of it on Chouca8a+ (5.13c).[80]
yo-yo
A free climbing term pre-redpointing, where a falling lead climber returns to the ground to restart, but leaves their rope clipped into the protection — in redpointing, the rope is pulled free from all protection before re-starting the climb.[2]
American system for grading walks, hikes, and climbs; the rock climbing (5.x) goes: 5.7, 5.8, 5.9, 5.10a, 5.10b, 5.10c, 5.10d, 5.11a, .... , 5.14a, 5.14b, 5.14c, 5.14d, 5.15a, etc., and with the French grade system, is the most widely used grading system worldwide for sport climbing.[6]
Z
z-clipping
While lead climbing, clipping into protection with a segment of rope from beneath the previous piece of protection, resulting in rope drag.[1][10]
^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p q r s t u v w x y z aa ab ac ad ae af ag ah ai aj ak al am an ao ap aq ar as at au av aw ax ay az ba bb bc bd be bf bg bh bi bj bk bl bm bn bo bp bq br bs bt bu bvClimbing Staff (4 May 2022). "What's A Redpoint And What Do Other Climbing Terms Mean? Our Climbing Dictionary Has The Answers". Climbing. Retrieved 3 March 2023.
^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p q r s t u v w x y z aa ab ac ad ae af ag ah ai aj ak al am an ao ap aq ar as at au av aw ax ay az ba bb bc bd be bf bg bh bi bj bk bl bm bn bo bp bq br bs bt bu bv bw bx by bz ca cb cc cd ce cf cg ch ci cj ck cl cm cn co cp cq cr cs ct cu cv cw cx cy cz da db dc dd de df dg dh di dj dk dl dm dn do dp dqBate, Chris; Arthur, Charles; et al. (8 May 2006). "A Glossary of Climbing terms: from Abseil to Zawn". UK Climbing. Retrieved 29 April 2018.
^ a b c d e f g h iAndrew Bisharat (6 October 2009). Sport Climbing: From Toprope to Redpoint, Techniques for Climbing Success. Mountaineers Books. ISBN978-1594852701. Retrieved 15 August 2023. ebook: ISBN9781594855139
^ a b c d e f"Grade Comparison Chart". Alpinist. 2023. Archived from the original on 30 March 2021. Retrieved 10 March 2023.
^Ellison, Julie; Whitehead, JP (28 April 2016). "Training: 16 Climbing Games". Climbing. Retrieved 20 May 2019.
^ a b c d e f g hMandelli, Gabriele; Angriman, A (2016). Scales of Difficulty in Mountaineering. Central School of Mountaineering, Italy. S2CID 53358088.
^Weidner, Heather (11 November 2018). "Total Body Climbing: Use All Your Body Parts for Smart, Savvy Climbing". Climbing. Retrieved 20 May 2019.
^Simon, Bryan R.; Hawkins, Seth C. (18 March 2019). "Learn This: Deep-Water Soloing 101". Climbing. Retrieved 10 May 2023.
^Corrigan, Kevin (4 September 2022). "Rappellers Threw Themselves Face First Off Cliff With One-Nut Anchor". Climbing. Retrieved 21 March 2023.
^ a b"Three Common Lead Climbing Mistakes to Avoid". Grippped Magazine. 1 March 2021. Retrieved 3 March 2023.
^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m"Climbing Techniques and Moves | REI Expert Advice". REI. Retrieved 13 March 2019.
^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m n"Intermediate Moves". ClimbingTechniques.org. Retrieved 13 March 2019.
^Schwartz, Howie (21 July 2016). "Demystifying the Ball Nut!". Sierra Mountain Guides. Retrieved 10 March 2023.
^ a bOsius, Alison (22 August 2022). "Sh*t Climbers Bring These Days". Outside. Retrieved 25 June 2024.
^ a b c d eBrinlee, Chris (16 March 2016). "The Noob's Guide to Rock Climbing". Outside. Retrieved 5 July 2023.
^"Belay stations – Mountaineering Methodology". www.mountaineeringmethodology.com. Archived from the original on 29 January 2018. Retrieved 8 December 2017.
^Griffith, Conor (2023). "How It Works: The Bicycle". FrictinoLabs. Retrieved 5 March 2023.
^Pack, Pamela (18 April 2016). "Learn This: Offwidth Protection Primer". Climbing. Retrieved 30 October 2023.
^Santelices, Christian (18 June 2013). "How to Hip Belay". Climbing.com. Retrieved 20 April 2023.
^Bagley, Pat (2 February 2023). "Learn This Critical Skill for Steep Rock: Boinking". Climbing. Retrieved 5 March 2023.
^Fitchcroft, Cath (25 October 2007). "Bomb-proof belay stakes at Pembroke". British Mountaineering Council. Retrieved 1 March 2023.
^ a b c dSynott, Mark (23 February 2022). "Everything You Need to Know for Your First Big Wall". Climbing. Retrieved 16 May 2023.
^Kirkpatrick, Andrew (2020). "CH04 Anchors". Down. Andrew Kirkpatrick Limited. ISBN978-1-9997005-7-7.
^"Bowline on a bight". Retrieved July 4, 2020.
^Siacci, Ryan (12 July 2023). "Many a visitor has left our shores with crappy dacks (a quaint piece of slang meaning basically what you'd expect) after an exciting episode with this Aussie icon". Climbing. Retrieved 8 November 2023.
^"The Boot Flake on The Nose on El Cap is Gone, April Foola". Gripped Magazine. 2 April 2020. Retrieved 25 May 2023.
^Kuehl, Matt (18 December 2015). "Don't Just Wing It: 6 Crucial Wide-Crack Techniques". Climbing. Retrieved 20 May 2019.
^Achey, Jeff (27 April 2022). "Before "the Nut" There Was "the Pebble"… and It Was Sketchy". Climbing. Retrieved 12 September 2023.
^Der Sächsische Bergsteigerbund, ed. (1 September 2009), "5.1 Klettergipfel", Sächsische Kletterregeln : Vollständige Fassung (in German), archived from the original (Webdokument) on 10 September 2011, retrieved 16 November 2009
^ a b c d e f gPotter, Stephen (25 July 2022). "Your Complete Guide to Rock Climbing Ropes". Climbing. Retrieved 21 March 2023.
^Dunne, Toby (17 August 2021). "A brief history of competition climbing". British Mountaineering Council. Retrieved 10 March 2023.
^Quinn, Steve (13 August 2008). "The Crux". Climbing. Retrieved 24 December 2022.
^Walker, Noah (21 July 2021). "Do Ethical Dabs in Bouldering Exist?". Gripped Magazine. Retrieved 5 March 2023.
^Mountaineering : the freedom of the hills. Mountaineers Books. 2017. ISBN9781680510034. OCLC 978286879.
^"Climbing Movement: 17. The DeadPoint". Climbing Tech Tips. 20 August 2017. Archived from the original on 20 September 2020. Retrieved 20 May 2019.
^ a b c dCymerman, A; Rock, PB. "Medical Problems in High Mountain Environments. A Handbook for Medical Officers". US Army Research Inst. of Environmental Medicine Thermal and Mountain Medicine Division Technical Report. USARIEM-TN94-2. Archived from the original on 2009-04-23. Retrieved 2009-03-05.
^"Film: Emilio Comici – Angel of the Dolomites". Gripped Magazine. 8 July 2015. Retrieved 25 August 2023.
^"DIRTBAG: THE LEGEND OF FRED BECKEY Screening". The Mountaineers. Retrieved 2021-02-07.
^Ellison, Julie (11 January 2013). "Extension Basics". Climbing. Retrieved 9 December 2016.
^"Preventing Rope Drag". ClimbingTechniques.org. Retrieved 9 December 2016.
^Potter, Stephen (23 August 2022). "A Beginner's Guide to Lead Climbing". Climbing. Retrieved 24 December 2022.
^"Drilling Bolts? Do Not Do This!". Mountain Project. Retrieved 15 December 2017.
^"Drilled Pitons in the desert". Mountain Project. Retrieved 15 December 2017.
^ a bLarson, Josh (14 December 2021). "Uncoordinated? Here are Three Drills to Improve Your Dynamic Movement". Climbing. Retrieved 25 April 2023.
^Frommer, Harvey (2005). The Sports Junkie's Book of Trivia, Terms, and Lingo: What They Are, Where They Came From, and How They're Used. Taylor Trade Publishing. p. 308. ISBN978-1-4616-2603-9.
^ a bPardy, Aaron (2 November 2022). "Onsight and Flash – What Do They Mean?". Gripped Magazine. Retrieved 24 December 2022.
^"What is French free climbing". Climber. 12 April 2021. Retrieved 5 March 2023.
^Tim Hatch, François Leonardon. "IFSC 2021 Rules" (PDF). Archived from the original on May 8, 2021. Retrieved 2021-12-04.
^ a b cPardy, Aaron (5 November 2022). "Redpoint, Pinkpoint, and Headpoint – What Do They Mean?". Gripped Magazine. Retrieved 21 December 2022.
^Corrigan, Kevin (6 October 2022). "Hangboarding For Everyone". Climbing. Retrieved 10 March 2023.
^Haas, Laz (21 July 2022). "How to Hangdog Sport Climbing". Climbing. Retrieved 3 March 2023.
^ a bNelson, Ryan (27 February 2012). "Is Mixed Climbing Legitimate?". Rock & Ice. Archived from the original on 30 April 2023. Retrieved 30 April 2023.
^Mountaineering : the freedom of the hills. Mountaineers Books. 2017. ISBN9781680510034. OCLC 978286879.
^"Best Ice Climbing tools | Black Diamond Ice Axes | Black Diamond® Climbing Gear".
^Buys, Jordan (15 November 2010). "Use your knees!". UKClimbing. Retrieved 12 December 2016.
^Walker, Noah (31 December 2020). "Grading: Adam Ondra and Alex Megos on Ethics and Kneepads". Gripped Magazine. Retrieved 25 June 2024.
^Adam Ondra (8 January 2021). "Climbing Ethics". AdamOndra.com. Retrieved 1 January 2022.
^"Leavittation: How To Climb Offwidth Cracks". Gripped Magazine. 8 May 2013. Retrieved 6 March 2023.
^Hartemann, Frederic; Hauptman, Robert (2005-06-15). The Mountain Encyclopedia: An A to Z Compendium of Over 2,250 Terms, Concepts, Ideas, and People. Taylor Trade Publishing. ISBN9781461703310.
^Samet, Matt (26 June 2019). "Ah Yes: The Red-Tag / Open Project Dilemma". Climbing. Retrieved 15 September 2023.
^ a bOgden, Jared (2005). "Chapter1: Big Wall Climbing Procedures". Big Wall Climbing: Elite Technique (1st ed.). Mountaineers Books. pp. 94–140. ISBN978-0898867480.
^Wharton, Josh (25 August 2022). "Top-rope soloing: How Josh Wharton Climbs Multi-pitches Faster and With Less Energy". Climbing. Retrieved 5 March 2023.
^Black, Christian (3 February 2022). "Rope Solo Rock Climbing: Understanding How It's Done". GearJunkie. Retrieved 3 March 2023.
^Chelton, Neil (2024). "How To Climb a Big Wall – Fixing Pitches". VDiff Climbing. Retrieved 10 May 2024.
^Miller, Sam (26 October 2022). "Opinion: Not Retro-Bolting Is Irresponsible. A Doctor Sounds Off". Climbing. Retrieved 1 March 2023.
^Bordeau, Steve (18 July 2023). "Should We Really Retro-bolt That Dangerous Classic?". Climbing. Retrieved 12 September 2023.
^Midtbø, Magnus (30 October 2017). "How to Rodeo Clip – Climbing Rope Skills". Rock & Ice. Archived from the original on 11 March 2023. Retrieved 10 March 2023.
^"Watch Anna Stohr do the Rose Move on the Famous Rose Route". Gripped Magazine. 22 November 2018. Retrieved 10 March 2023.
^Ax, Anders (6 November 2015). "Tool Users: Realized Ultimate Reality Piton". Alpinist. Retrieved 10 March 2023.
^Facante, Russ (4 April 2012). "Short-Fixing". Climbing. Retrieved 10 March 2023.
^ a bOakley, Miranda (23 December 2022). "Advanced Climbing Techniques: Simul-Climbing and Short-Fixing". Climbing. Retrieved 10 March 2023.
^Copeland, Victor (15 October 2022). "The Weird Origins Of Bouldering's Sit Start". Climbing. Retrieved 13 August 2023.
^Potter, Stephen (23 August 2022). "A Beginner's Guide to Lead Climbing". Climbing. Retrieved 18 March 2023.
^ a b cIssac, Sean (2 February 2004). "Ice Climbing Skills: The Stein Pull". Climbing. Retrieved 30 April 2023.
^Soanes, Catherine and Stevenson, Angus (ed.) (2005). Oxford Dictionary of English, 2nd Ed., revised, Oxford University Press, Oxford, New York, p. 1775. ISBN978-0-19-861057-1.
.jpg/1280px-Petzl_Ascenders_(On_Rope).jpg)
.jpg/1280px-Agamemnon_(20600608644).jpg)
.jpg/1280px-Glissading_0125_(3938801127).jpg)
_in_El_Capitan_-_04.jpg/1280px-Emily_Harrington_sends_Golden_Gate_(5.13_VI)_in_El_Capitan_-_04.jpg)
.jpg/1280px-Climbing_World_Championships_2018_Lead_Semi_Klingler_(BT0A1022).jpg)
.jpg){kind=link}
.jpg){kind=link}
.jpg){kind=link}
_in_El_Capitan_-_04.jpg){kind=link}
.jpg){kind=link}
.jpg){kind=link}
.jpg){kind=link}
.jpg){kind=link}
_in_El_Capitan_-_04.jpg){kind=link}
.jpg){kind=link}
